Bristol Victorian terraced houses with slate roofs and bay windows on a hill

Roofers in Patchway

Patchway lies north-west of Bath, 22.6 road miles away, and grew in layers: a village green, a 1930s estate, bungalow streets, a 1960s overspill and the new Charlton Hayes. Each layer has its own roofs, and we repair them according to the era, the build and the covering actually in place.

Local roofs

A village that became four neighbourhoods

At the start of the 20th century Patchway was a small village centred on Patchway Green, now known as Patchway Common. Almost everything else you see grew afterwards. During the 1930s, new housing was built on Patchway Estate, just north of Filton Aerodrome, and bungalows were built on Stoke Lane. A large bungalow estate followed at Stoke Lodge in the 1950s and early 1960s, and a huge overspill estate was built at the back of Patchway Estate in the mid-1960s.

The newest neighbour is Charlton Hayes, built on land north of the old Filton Airfield and named after the demolished village of Charlton. Construction began in late 2009 under a permission for 2,200 homes, and since 2023 it has been a civil parish of its own. Between these areas runs the main South Wales to London railway line, with Patchway station on it, and the New Filton Bypass, now part of the M5, was built in the mid-1960s along the upper edge of the Severn Escarpment on the north-west fringe of Patchway Estate.

For roofing, this layering is more useful than any single description of the town. A bungalow roof from the Stoke Lodge years is a different object from a two-storey house on the 1960s overspill, and neither resembles a Charlton Hayes roof. Before we recommend anything, we work out which era the roof belongs to and what repairs it has had.

The pattern across Patchway is therefore of roofs reaching the same age together, in blocks. If your road was built in one go, the faults we find on your roof tell you a good deal about your neighbours', and the reverse is also true. Our survey puts the findings in writing and ends with a fixed price.

Council
South Gloucestershire Council
From central Bath
22.6 road miles, north-west
Patchway Estate
1930s housing north of Filton Aerodrome
Stoke Lodge
Bungalow estate, 1950s and early 1960s
Charlton Hayes
Building from late 2009, 2,200 homes permitted

What we find

Big bungalow roofs, garages and 1960s edges

Big roof, small house on the bungalowsA bungalow has one storey of walls under a wide roof, so the roof is a large share of what you see. We check the hips, the eaves all round and the loft for condensation, since a single-storey roof void can sit damp for years before anyone looks.
Ageing garage and porch roofsFlat felt over a garage, a corrugated cement sheet on a lean-to, a thin porch canopy: the secondary roofs on 1950s and 1960s plots tend to be forgotten until they leak. We find out what each is made of before advising.
Edges of the 1960s house roofsHouses built in the mid-1960s have verges, soffits and fascias that are now very old. We look at the bargeboards, the timber behind them and the pointing where tiles meet the gable.

Bungalow roofs on Stoke Lane and at Stoke Lodge

When one storey carries a whole roof, the covering is the biggest part of the house.

Bungalows were built in Patchway in two main bursts: on Stoke Lane in the 1930s, and across the large Stoke Lodge estate in the 1950s and early 1960s. A bungalow is a simple shape with a demanding roof. The walls are low, the roof is wide, and there is no upper floor to share the weather with. Every rainstorm lands on a big area of covering relative to the floor space below.

The first practical benefit is access. A single-storey roof is lower to work on, so a tower or a modest scaffold can often replace a full-height one. We still make every job safe, but the cost of access can be less than it would be for a two-storey house, and we price it as its own line.

The roof void is the part to watch. In a bungalow, the loft often runs the whole length of the house, and any moisture rising from the rooms below has a long space to condense in. Staining on the rafters, damp insulation or a musty smell in the cupboard that gives access are signs of ventilation trouble rather than leaks, and putting new tiles over a poorly ventilated void would not solve them. We check the eaves vents and the ridge, and tell you if a ventilation fix belongs in the plan.

Hips are the next focus. Many bungalows are hipped, so each corner of the roof has a sloping ridge of tiles that must be fixed and weathered. Where those hips have been bedded in mortar for years, cracks open, and a persistent drip at one corner of a room may trace to the hip above.

If the covering needs renewing, a lighter or heavier material than the old one affects the timbers. A bungalow roof structure was designed for a certain weight, and we confirm that a new covering suits it. The order of work for a full re-cover is laid out under roof replacement.

The 1930s estate and the mid-1960s overspill

Two generations of two-storey housing, thirty years apart, with different details to inspect.

The 1930s houses of Patchway Estate and the mid-1960s overspill behind it belong to different building cultures. The earlier houses tend to have more traditional roof carpentry and a chimney stack at each gable. The later ones were built faster and lighter, with lower pitches, shallower eaves and a fascia board running unbroken round the house. Both are now old, and each has its own list of likely failures.

In the older houses, the stack is the first thing to look at. Bricks weather, the mortar between them loses its face, and the flashing round the base can lift. Rain then runs into the wall and the chimney breast, and shows up as a stain on the bedroom ceiling. Repointing and renewing the lead round the base can be done without rebuilding the whole stack, and our flat roofing work often goes alongside, when a rear extension has a flat roof meeting the same wall.

In the 1960s houses, the main weakness is the edge. Timber fascias and soffits, the boards that close the roof overhang, rot slowly from the gutter line. A board that has gone soft cannot hold the gutter or the first row of tiles properly, and the damp can climb into the rafter ends behind it. When we find that, we say how far the rot extends before we advise.

The coverings also differ. A 1930s roof may carry clay tiles, and a 1960s one usually has a machine-made tile of some kind, but we confirm by looking, not by guessing from the date. What matters is that the replacement tile sits properly beside the old one in profile and colour when only part of the roof is being repaired.

Underlay is worth checking on both. The older houses may have none, and the later ones a thin felt that has dried out. We ease up a handful of tiles along the eaves, then report what lies beneath.

Era and likely first faults

EraFirst thing to checkWhy
1930s estateChimney base and flashingWeathered brick and lifted lead
1950s bungalowHips and loft ventilationMortar cracks, long damp void
Mid-1960s houseFascias and soffitsTimber rotting from the gutter line

Garages, porches and outbuildings

The extras that came with each estate are often the roofs nobody has looked at for years.

Every estate in Patchway came with garages, porches and lean-tos, and many have been added to since. These secondary roofs are usually covered in something other than the house tiles: a layer of bitumen felt, a corrugated sheet, a thin metal panel or a plastic roof light. They are easy to ignore, but a garage roof that leaks onto stored belongings or a car causes as much trouble as the main roof.

Identifying the covering comes first. Garages from the 1950s and 1960s sometimes have corrugated sheets that contain asbestos cement. If so, the way they are handled matters. HSE guidance treats careful removal of asbestos cement sheeting, handled without breaking it up, as non-licensed work, but where the material will be substantially broken the work becomes notifiable non-licensed work. We do not guess, and we do not disturb a sheet we cannot identify. If there is a doubt, a sample is tested first.

If the sheeting is sound and not leaking, leaving it undisturbed can be the sensible choice. If it has cracked, or if you want the garage re-roofed, a replacement system is straightforward: a new deck, a membrane or a lightweight sheet and proper edges. Our garage roof replacement page describes the options and when each suits.

Porch canopies and flat extension roofs tend to fail at the wall junction. The lead or felt turned up against the brickwork loosens, water gets behind it and runs into the structure. We check the upstand, renew the weathering and test the fall of the roof so water drains rather than sits.

For outbuildings with no electricity or heating, a simple covering is often all that is needed. We tell you that clearly, and give you a price for the simple option as well as the better one when there is a choice.

Words you will hear

Asbestos cement
A rigid sheeting material used on many mid-century garage roofs.
Upstand
The edge of a flat roof membrane folded up a wall face.
Fall
The slight slope that lets a flat roof shed water.
Deck
The board or sheet surface that a flat roof covering sits on.

Planning a re-roof, and the new homes at Charlton Hayes

Replacing an old roof raises rules about weight, warmth and approval that a repair does not.

Repair and replacement sit on opposite sides of a regulatory line. A repair, or a re-cover that affects only a limited part of the building and less than half of the roof, is not normally something that needs Building Regulations approval. A larger re-roof does, and the roof may then need upgrading for thermal performance under Part L. Approval is also needed if the roof covering you choose adds 15% or more to the weight, with a structural check under Approved Document A. These are the Planning Portal's thresholds, and we show where your own roof falls against them before any price is set.

This matters in Patchway because the roofs of the bungalows and the 1960s houses were built to older standards. Replacing a whole roof is often the moment to improve loft insulation and ventilation, and it is easier to do it while the covering is off. If the work is notifiable, the application goes to your building control body, whether that is the council's own team or a registered private approver.

The sequence of a full re-roof is steady and predictable. Scaffold is erected, the old covering is stripped in sections, the timbers are checked and any rotten rafters or battens are renewed, the underlay goes on, and the new covering is fixed. At the verges, ridge and hips the fixings are mechanical. Last of all, the site is swept clear.

Charlton Hayes stands apart from all this. Construction began in late 2009 on land north of the old airfield, under a permission for 2,200 homes, so its roofs are new and are covered by the rules of their own time. If you live there, you are unlikely to need a re-roof, but you may need small repairs, and the same survey applies.

Patchway Common, the old green, is where the village stood at the start of the 20th century, and for any older house there, the approach is to identify the covering first, then match it.

Re-roof or repair

Repair while the structure is sound, and replace when the fixings, felt and timbers have all aged together.

Map showing the location of Patchway.

Nearby

Roofers near Patchway

Roofing services in Patchway

Local questions

Bungalow, estate or new build in Patchway?

Why does my Stoke Lodge bungalow have damp patches high on the walls?

A long single-storey loft can trap moist air from the rooms below, and condensation then forms on cold timber and drips onto the ceiling. That looks like a leak but is a ventilation issue. We check for tide marks, blocked eaves vents and damp insulation, and also for a true leak at a hip or valley, then tell you which problem you have.

My 1950s garage has corrugated sheets. Is it safe to leave them?

Where the sheet is intact and not shedding fibres, leaving it undisturbed is often reasonable. Some garages of that age have asbestos cement roofs, which is why we never break or drill a sheet we cannot identify. If the roof is leaking or broken, we advise testing a sample and planning a replacement properly, following HSE guidance on handling the material.

Do the mid-1960s houses on the overspill estate need new fascias before a new roof?

Often the two go together. Fascias and soffits from that period are timber that has been exposed for a long time, and a soft board cannot carry gutters or the bottom courses of new tiles. It makes sense to renew them while the scaffold is up, so we inspect them in the survey and list them as a separate item.

Does a home at Charlton Hayes ever need roof work?

Occasionally, for small things. Newer roofs can suffer a cracked tile, a loose ridge cap, a displaced flashing or a gutter joint that weeps. We recommend a look after a hard winter or after any work on the roof by other trades. Fixing a small fault early costs a fraction of dealing with the damp it can cause later.

Get your free survey

Get your free roof survey

Tell us what's happening and we'll call you back to arrange a visit. Prefer to talk? Call 01225 285181.

  • Photos of your own roof
  • A fixed price in writing
  • 10-year workmanship guarantee
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